Friday, 5 December 2014

Bibliography

Websites:

Books:
Lucie-Smith, E (1991). Sexuality In Western Art. 2nd ed. London: Thames and Hudson.
Bellantoni, P (2005). If It's Purple, Someone's Gonna Die. Oxford: Elsevier.
Lucie-Smith, E (1995). The Thames and Hudson Dictionary of Art Terms. 2nd ed. London: Thames and Hudson.

Isherwood, C. Goodbye To Berlin. Kobo E-book. 

Emcee final face chart


Excuse the messy production but this was my final face chart for Emcee- Some parts of which were developed further during the application process (See final images)

Creating Emcee: Final Images!




 These are my final images for my contemporary Emcee. Though I know that artistically I have a long way to go, I am so proud of the way this has come out. I found creating a good white base for the skin was challenging but in the process I learnt a lot about application of different products, as well as what I prefer to use; in this instance I opted for a mixture of the white Illamasqua foundation and the white SupraColor as I found that the SupraColor improved the texture of the foundation.

When I was designing for Emcee, I had a vision that my model would be female; a woman portraying a man pretending to be a woman (my head hurts!!) I feel that this choice worked in my favour with regards to originality as for what I wanted to create, using a male model would have looked too 'drag'; Emcee is not supposed to look like a drag queen, he is an androgynous character and I felt that using a male model was a little "been there, done that"... I was conscious of putting my own stamp on the role as it has already been through several incarnations, each iconic.

I have also found that experimenting with my ideas on a practical level has enabled me to develop an outcome that I am happy with whereas in previous units I have been less hands on and always found that my work wasn't even close to what I had envisaged. In choosing a practical approach to design, I feel I have produced an outcome which incorporates the themes of the 1920s cabaret with the 1980s club culture in a way which is both striking and successful; I feel you can clearly see that both elements were considered in the design process, making the design contemporary whilst still being appropriate the character. Ultimately, I have brought my ideas to fruition and produced an outcome I am satisfied with for the first time ever which I feel is the foundation stone for bigger and better things!

Artistic Inspiration: Paco Peregrin!

Brassfield, M. (2009). Ronald McDonald Hair. Available: http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/alien-dolls-paco-peregrin-kattaca#!/photos/46536/2. Last accessed 5th Dec 2014.

Looking at expressionism has triggered an obsession with art that reflects a mood instead of just depicting the world as is. I found that one artist in particular who really appealed to me was Paco Peregrin. An article I read on his work had this to say on his 'Alien Dolls' series:

"This space-age photo shoot by Paco Peregrin and Kattaca is called 'Alien Dolls,' and it's easy to see why. Each model featured has a more avant-garde look than the last. With porcelain pale skin, super-bright makeup and dramatic accents, it's a pictorial for the ages." 
Brassfield, M. (2009). Ronald McDonald Hair. Available: http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/alien-dolls-paco-peregrin-kattaca#!/photos/46536/2. Last accessed 5th Dec 2014. 

I loved the use of crimped, textured hair and felt that the pale complexions of the models was reminiscent of Alan Cumming's version of Emcee. This combined with the bright feature makeup was a particularly striking visual and is appropriate to the character I have chosen.

Paco Peregrin is an international photographer from Spain who has worked with many high profile clients including Dior, Chanel and Saint Laurent. Peregrin's work has been published in Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, Vanity Fair and many more. For the 'Alien Dolls' series Peregrin worked with Art Director Mario Ville (Kattaca) about whom I can find a frustrating lack of information, just many many examples of fantastic creative vision!

Abstract Painting with Kryolan AquaColor


You will need:
-Kryolan AquaColor Palette
-Water
-A variety of paint brushes


Directions:
-Select several AquaColor paints, any colours you like
-Apply paints with wet brushes using a variety of strokes and pressures; this work is not intended to be neat but should reflect artistic style
- Use a variety of brushes and sponges to create different textures; Experiment with application techniques considering the brush movements and pressure used to make interesting marks



Evaluation:My inspiration for this was a combination of the colours from the sky in Edvard Munch's 'The Scream' and the brush strokes in the work of Otto Dix. I love the combination of colour used and would like to incorporate this technique into future work as I feel it is simple and effective. I may incorporate elements of the technique into my contemporary design. 




Making a Feather Headdress... All Out Cabaret!

Considering the scene I chose to inspire my Emcee design sees him hidden amongst the Kit Kat girls, I thought it would be best to style my model appropriately. Looking at the traditional feather headdresses worn by cabaret girls, I felt including an accessory like this would complete my look and link in to the original text as I didn't want Emcee to be unrecognisable as a Cabaret character.

When I looked into creating my own headdress I found that they are built on a frame that sits firmly on the head- this obviously allows for plenty of movement when dancing. I looked into purchasing the correct frame but found that having one delivered in time for the shoot would not have been possible and it would also have come at great expense. Considering this, but not wanting to give up on the idea, I decided to improvise! 

I purchased an Alice band, shoulder pads, jewellery wire, feathers and spray paint and set about creating my vision... A few hours and, dare I say it, quite a lot of expletives later, I had this:


I have to say, I'm quite impressed given that it was totally muddled together... I was half expecting it not to work but I'm glad I persevered as I love it! Obviously considering that this design I am creating is intended for TV and Film, the headdress should be made from a more suitable frame which allows for movement but as this was not possible, I felt that create the piece on an Alice band would suffice for photographs. 



Creating Anita Berber

Take One!




Take Two!





The above images show my Anita Berber design and continuity creations. I find the opportunity to practice continuity advantageous as it causes me to be more particular about the work I produce, progressing my artistic skills as well as teaching me to be accurate in what I create. I loved researching the Berber character and designing for her; I feel that the continuity of the make-up is fairly precise but recognise that the area which let me down (no surprises!) was the hair. I used a cheap scratch wig and found that I could not get it to sit the same in shoot two as it did in shoot one. The difference in the styling of the wig impacts upon the images as a whole because the fringe of the wig in the second run obscures the makeup moreso than it did in the initial practical. I feel that from this I have learnt a lot about how the most basic of styling choices can impact upon the whole image. In future, I will use this experience to consider more carefully the styling choices I make for my work.



Anita Berber

Born in Dresden is 1899, Anita Berber was a model, actress and dancer. A controversial figure in the 1920s, Berber epitomises the excess and decadence of the era. Addicted to numerous hard drugs and a heavy drinker, Berber died penniless at the age of just 29 but in her short life she became an icon. Anita Berber was the subject of an Otto Dix painting, she married three times and she appeared in a number of silent films. Berber's image will always be synonymous with the era she helped to define.




Emcee Experiments

In order to explore my idea for Emcee, I experimented with a variety of different materials to see what would work best. In this image, I have used eyeshadows to create colour on the skin. Whilst I liked the blended effect of using eyeshadow alone, I didn't like the brows I created and felt there was no link to the 1920s.

Here, I have used eyeshadows with a MAC mixing medium and Illamasqua sealing gel. I feel I took the colouring of the face too far in this instance and preferred the disconnected elements of red and blue as I felt this was more reflective of the internal conflict Emcee experiences as a character. The brows in this experiment are an indication of the 1920s/30s roots of the character.


This next experiment was created using a mixture of pencils, shadows and eyeliner pens. I felt this experiment was the most effective as the combination of products created depth and texture to the character and the colour I used was just enough, not dominating the face as it had above making the work look purposeful. Again, I like the altered position of the brows as I felt this was a nod to the 1920s roots of the character. I also like the technique I used to draw the new brows on; I create them with a slim felt-tip eyeliner pen and the visible brush strokes give a hair-lie appearance whilst retaining the abstract feel I was aiming for.



Though I was satisfied with the image above, I felt I should experiment with SupraColor to see if I could further improve my design. I created the image below with this in mind but found that I was losing the essence of my idea by changing my approach to materials. SupraColor is advantageous as a product as it blends so easily because it is grease-based, however, in this instance, I felt that the heavy blending was inappropriate to my design idea as it didn't allow me to show the link to the original text, so this experiment did not reflect the character. 





Thursday, 27 November 2014

Colour Theory For Emcee

When I think of Emcee, some of the words which come to mind are:
  • Defiant- He does not care that his behaviour on stage is controversial, in fact, he seems to revel in it... Defying what is expected by society
  • Oppressed- I think outside of work, society in Weimar Berlin would be an oppressive influence on a personality like Emcee and his defiant attitude in work is a response to this; in character whilst hosting at the Kit Kat Klub he can be as overtly sexual as he desires, contrasting with the more reserved persona he would have to adopt in his daily life
  • Lusty- This is the trait we see most in Emcee and I would like to avoid portraying him this way as I feel it has been done
  • Exuberant- Emcee is a high energy character on stage and is often singing, dancings and cracking jokes; this could be something worth reflecting in my designs
So how does all this translate into colour theory?

Red is commonly associated with the theme of defiance and in her book 'If It's Purple, Someone's Gonna Die', Patti Bellantoni discusses the significance of James Dean's red jacket in 'Rebel Without A Cause', she says:

"It's important to remember that the 1950s sensibilities kept the idea of sex under wraps and reduced it to a whisper. But that red jacket shouted not only 'sexy', it signalled danger, rage, torment and courage as well. It's the red jacket that gives the cisual power to Dean as the quintessential anti-hero"
Bellantoni, P (2005). If It's Purple, Someone's Gonna Die. Oxford: Elsevier. 13.


Whilst red is associated with defiance, we often see blue as representative of oppression; on this Bellantoni cites 'Sense and Sensibility' as an example. She says:

"Underneath the rigid rules of social behaviour in Ang Lee's interpretation of Jane Austen's novel lies a psychological world of abject powerlessness. The director very subtly allows us to feel that world- the world of the Dashwood women- by creating an environment dominated by blue. They wear blue, drink tea from blue cups and are closed in by walls that are a faded wedgewood. Even their weather is a pale grey-blue. The persistent presence of the colour provides the emotional context for their plight and influences our sympathetic response to it"
Bellantoni, P (2005). If It's Purple, Someone's Gonna Die. Oxford: Elsevier. P86. 

I find the contrast between the themes interesting and feel that they would work well as a basis for my Emcee design as he is a defiant character in a world of oppression; his character almost seems to be deliberately overt, making a mockery of the increasingly fascist society of Berlin outside the confines of the Kit Kat Klub.



Picture credit: Anon. (). Rebel Without A Cause. Available:http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0048545/. Last accessed 27th Nov 2014.
































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































Monday, 24 November 2014

Presentation and Feedback







Feedback for presentation:

  • Ideas are exciting but need to be evidenced
  • Colour theory links are good but you need to show another point of inspiration is needed- Reference an art movement, film, text... Anything which can demonstrate the process of design
  • Include some original drawings and practical experiments both in and out of studio time 


Sunday, 23 November 2014

Art Movements In 1920s Germany

When the Nazis rose to power after the Weimar period, much work of great artistic value was lost. Notable art movements of the period included:

Grotesque: Depicting fantastical characters, grotesque and satirical-grotesque artwork was ppular in Weimar Germany. Notable artists of this style include Max Beckmann and Otto Dix.

Expressionism: The art of the individual, expressionism was a genre of art which depicted life from to unique perspective of it's creators; work was often warped imagery, inspired by personal emotions. This genre of art was innovated prior to the first world war and gained following en masse during the 1920s and 30s.

Cabaret and Political Satire: The rise of this art form was centered in Berlin and there are scenes at the Kit Kat Klub in the 'Cabaret' script in which Emcee is depicted as mocking the Nazis.

Surrealism: This art movement is my personal favourite and the work associated with it details the content of dreams and the illogical. The surrealist manifesto states that reason should not exercise control over art. One of the most highly regarded Surrealist painters is Salvador Dali.

The great thing about getting to write a post like this is that I can include some of my favourite artists, one of whom is Edvard Munch. Munch was a great influence on the German Expressionists and is arguably best known for his painting The Scream, which, to me, is the ultimate depiction of spiralling despair.                
                                                                                                                                 
The choice of colours in Munch's 'The Scream' could link back to my colour theory research; with blue present in the background as well as a deep orange which, though it is not quite the defiant red I reference, is still a strong colour which conflicts with the blue. Beyond Munch's use of colour, I feel that the theme of despair in 'The Scream' is fitting to the mood of Weimar Berlin but does not necessarily suit the character of Emcee. 

Moving on from Munch, one of the most influential painters in Germany at the time of the Weimar Republic was Otto Dix whose distinctive style often echoed the bleakness of the day. Having looked at the work of Dix, I find it interesting that many of the figures he painted are of androgynous appearance, as if Dix was using his work to make a point about the oppressive state of society in Berlin as the Nazis rose to power. I think Dix's admiration for the controversial figure relates back to Emcee, a deliberately controversial figure in the Cabaret story. Both the character of Emcee and the paintings of Otto Dix are engineered to make the audience think; this is more obvious in the dark matter of Dix paintings whereas Emcee is, first and foremost an entertainer and, only when we fully consider his character do we see the parallel between the two. This image by Otto Dix is 'The Jeweler Karl Krall' (1923) and depicts Krall's son of the same name with a feminine figure. Interestingly enough, Dix's androgynous portraiture did not extend to images he painted of himself; Dix's self-portraits were conspicuously masculine. I have recreated his 1913 self-portrait in class using grease based supracolour makeup.





On the left we have my version of Dix's portrait (right). I found the surpracolour paints a challenge to use as they blend very easily and by blending them too much you lose the desired effect. I feel that I could improve upon this original attempt by paying more attention to the tones Dix used in the original but practising this techniques was useful and I might consider using this in my final design if I can improve upon my skills.

Lucie-Smith, E (1991). Sexuality In Western Art. 2nd ed. London: Thames and Hudson. p144.

The above image is Egon Schiele's 'A Cardinal Embracing A Nun' (1912). Though this predates the period I was looking at, Schiele demonstrates traits which link him to the German Expressionists. This piece in particular would be considered blasphemous and is clearly intended to be controversial as the figures depicted are bound by vows of celibacy but are clearly shown rejecting these vows and succumbing to passion. I felt the colours in this work were reflective of the themes of oppression, defiance and rebellion. 

Why Do They Want It? Why Do They Want It Now?

I suppose if we are going on the theory I have created, it is reasonable to say that everybody wants freedom of expression. To be oppressed by society would take it's toll emotionally and Emcee would want this pressure to be lifted.

I think going on personal experience, we never have a more true sense of self than at the times we are not allowed to express it. The mask we present to the world in these situations contrasts with who we are inside, making us all too aware of our own façades. I suppose this makes opportunities for self-expression all the more important to Emcee, he wants the chance to show people who he truly is (a privilege most people take for granted) and his only way of achieving this is to adopt the Master of Ceremonies persona which is an enhanced, almost caricature-esque, version of himself.

I suppose this idea of Emcee could almost be compared with Drag Queens and how they build a full character to express that element of themselves.

Well known drag queen RuPaul in character and as himself

Hiramine, B. (2014). The Accidental Transphobia of 'RuPaul's Drag Race'. Available: http://flavorwire.com/446737/the-accidental-transphobia-of-rupauls-drag-race. Last accessed 24 Nov 2014.

What Do They Want?

Emcee's role is to entertain the patrons of the Kit Kat Klub and he seems to be dedicated to this. In order to really connect with the character, we must assume that there is more to him than just the host we see. 

His continually upbeat performances could well be masking an internal conflict; nobody is happy all the time and the darker facets of his character could be incorporated into his makeup. An inner sadness would suggest that his interactions with the audience are a coping mechanism; he is often seen to be making light of everything but that is not a reflection of how he feels inside. 

Weimar Berlin was a period when the Nazi Party were rising to power and homosexuality was frowned upon... Gay men would soon be severely persecuted for their preferences and if we assume that Emcee is bisexual at the very least then we can conclude that this is what he feels a deep sadness about; his time on stage at the klub could be his only outlet for expressing who he truly is. I think Emcee wants to have the same freedom of expression in his every day life that he does on stage. 

What Has Just Happened?

As previously discussed, Emcee would have entered the stage from his dressing room where he would have prepared himself to perform. It is likely that the lengthy process of applying his heavy makeup allowed him time to get into character, mentally preparing to entertain the audience disguised as a woman.
A photo depicting the contrast between the man and his drag alter-ego

Lamont-Djite, T. (2012). Drag Queens: There's One In All Of Us.Available: http://www.beautylish.com/a/vcqpi/drag-queens-theres-one-in-all-of-us. Last accessed 24 Nov 2014.

Where Have They Just Come From?

Part of the difficulty with not having an awful lot of background information for Emcee is having to come up with answers for the questions posed by Stanislavsky's Acting Technique. We don't see much of Emcee outside of The Kit Kat Klub so we can only assume that in this scene he has come onto the stage from the dressing room where he would have prepared himself in the drag costume to join the lineup of the Kit Kat Girls.

A backstage image of cabaret girls (1977)
Ellis, R. (2014). Backstage Dressing Room. Available: http://www.rennieellis.com.au/gallery/decadence/69. Last accessed 24 Nov 2014.



When Is It?

Like the majority of the story, this time of year is winter and life outside The Kit Kat Klub would be decidedly gloomy; aside from the wintry weather, the era is Weimar Republic Germany, a time which was economically and politically difficult. Due to these hard times, people would have sought an escape in the risque nightlife of central Berlin; entertainment thrived in this era, as well as science and art.

1930's Cabaret Girls
Tony, C. (2011). Cap'n's Cabaret. Available: http://www.dieselpunks.org/profiles/blogs/cap-n-s-cabaret-10-wild-wild-weimar. Last accessed 24 Nov 2014.

Chosen Scene- Act Two, Scene One

A short scene with limited dialogue, I have chosen Act Two, Scene One to focus my ideas for Emcee around. In this scene the Kit Kat girls enter to perform a song and it is not until Emcee speaks a line in a deliberately deep voice that we notice he is in the line up disguised as a woman.

I have chosen this scene because it shows just how effeminate Emcee is... He easily blends in with the Kit Kat girls and could therefore be modelled by a woman. I like the element of surprise in this scene, it shows that the character is truly multi-dimensional, making him exciting to design for.

In my mind's eye, I picture Emcee in a similar light to typically androgynous celebrities such as David Bowie and Boy George. Such is the similarity in traits that Bowie has been depicted by women in the past; notably Kate Moss and Tilda Swinton.

Swinton as Bowie. 
Duffty, K. (2014). Kate Moss and Tilda Swinton as David Bowie.Available: http://rebelrebelantistyle.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/kate-moss-and-tilda-swinton-as-david.html. Last accessed 24 Nov 2014.




Focus Character: Emcee, Who Is He?

The character I have chosen to design my contemporary look for is Emcee, the Master of Ceremonies who hosts the Cabaret at The Kit Kat Klub. Ordinarily portrayed as wearing a heavy application of clown-like make-up, Emcee is a gender-questionable character; he is flamboyant, overtly sexual and entertaining yet mysterious.

I will be basing my interpretation of Emcee on Kabuki, an infamous member of the Club Culture era who was known for his outlandish costumes and impressive makeup.

Perhaps the most notable Emcee is Alan Cumming who played him in the stage production on several occasions. The picture on the right of Cumming in his Emcee character dress shows him wearing an almost bondage- like harness, a nod to the character's uninhibited sense of sexuality and that of the era. Smoking a cigarette (which would have been fashionable in the 1920s) and staring into some distant corner, it is clear to see that our Emcee is fabulous and yet a total enigma.

I enjoy this veiled quality to the character; we don't seem to know much about him which I feel could prove tricky to design for but will allow creative freedom.

In the 1972 film version of Cabaret (Directed by Bob Fosse), Emcee is played by Joel Grey who would have been in his late 30's to early 40's at the time and I feel this is appropriate to the character as his experience would translate into his risque performances.

Despite being effeminate, Emcee's sexuality is undisclosed which allows us to interpret him in our own way; for me, in the decadent and debauched world of Weimar Berlin, I feel that Emcee would have been Pansexual- unrestricted by gender of gender identity, an idea which will allow a broad approach to the design process.

Club Kids- A Celebration of Sin

Going forward into the contemporary design process, I'm looking at the Club Culture of the 1980s as it appears there are similarities between this era in New York City and 1920s Weimar Berlin.

Noted for their outlandish costumes and brazen recreational drug use, the Club Kids were subject to both criticism and admiration. In a slightly warped sense, these people were seen as celebrities of the club culture scene, notorious for their lives of decadence and excess.

Kabuki, one of the original Club Kids
Unknown. (2013). Boundless Innovation. Available: http://imgfave.com/view/4062650. Last accessed 24 Nov 2014.


If the fictional Kit Kat club is Cabaret's home of risque nightlife, it's real-life counterpart has to be The Limelight club in New York. Part of the Limelight chain, this venue was the most infamous of it's type. Formerly a church, the building was acquired by the club chain in 1982 but it was not until 1996 that the club was met with the full glare of media attention when it was linked to the murder of a drug dealer who frequented the venue. Having gained nototiety, it is no surprise that the club is still talked about today:

"I'm bored with that line. I never use it anymore. My new line is “In 15 minutes everybody will be famous”. 
              - Andy Warhol

Warhol, the god-like genius of pop art who in November 1983 hosted the opening night of the Limelight club in New York, had presciently foreseen the democratization of fame in his now iconic one line manifesto in 1968, later riffing on his own credo out of frustration with its journey into cliché.

The Limelight spun that riff into a gyrating, vinyl clad, gender-bending, genre-hopping, and rhythm-soaked reality. It literally hummed with the electricity flowing from the sense that everyone in that wild church of emancipated hedonism was on the cusp of leaping with simultaneous and euphoric abandon through the looking glass of fame - just being there was celebrity itself."
Stewart, B. (). Limelight- Peter Gatien, Un Peu D'Histoire. Available: http://www.culturedivine.com/limelight.html. Last accessed 24 Nov 2014.

This extract on the activities The Limelight was so famous for, really emphasises the similarities between Club Culture and Weimar Berlin. The term "gender-bending" conjures images of Cabaret's Emcee, my focus character for the contemporary look and was clearly a stand-out feature of many of the Club Kids. As Emcee is gender questionable, I find the idea of Drag Makeup a good route of research for the character. So infamous were the original Club Kids that the style is being emulated today by a group calling themselves the Screaming Queens who can be hired as entertainment for parties. 

One of the "Screaming Queens"
Unknown. (). Club Kids. Available: http://www.screamingqueens.com/club_kids. Last accessed 24 Nov 2014.

I am considering Kabuki's pale complexion with bright contouring as possible inspiration for my contemporary interpretation of Emcee. 


Creating Nicole's Design

In the second assesment, I created Nicole's design for Fraulein Kost on Libby. The concept for this design was that Kost had just got up- She had been out the night before and worn her hair and make-up to bed.


When I practiced putting the rolls into the hair on my doll's head, I felt it when much better than it did in the assessment. I feel I would benefit from further practice of hair techniques to enable me to create more polished results. 










My Design, Created by Nicole

During the first timed assessment, Nicole produced my design on me. Though I was generally satisfied with my idea, I feel I could have developed it better. I continue to struggle with hair techniques and feel this is something I will need to build on in order to improve my design work- a better understanding of hair will allow me to produce more complex, visually impressive designs. I would have preferred to use someone else as a model for this as I feel I could have produced a better design on someone with longer hair... Had I attempted to find a model sooner, this would have helped so in future I will improve my time management with regards to assessment preparation.









Translating Research Into Design: How Does the Character's Lifestyle Affect Make-up?

As previously discussed, Sally's excessive lifestyle would take it's toll on her physical appearance. Bearing this in mind and also the way the original text describes her heavy makeup, I have produced a moodboard to reflect my ideas for Sally.


Considering the images I have chosen and the text that inspired my imagined depiction of Sally, I have made the following design decisions:
  • Do not include green nails- to do so will be too time consuming in the assessment
  • Keep lips cherry red as described in the book
  • Lips will have a chapped appearance- my chosen scene is in winter and chapped lips will reflect this as well as dehydration, brought on by Sally's alcohol intake and morning sickness
  • Bloodshot eyes- the text describes Sally's eyes as having "a boiled appearance" as a result of her heavy drinking, lack of sleep and probably morning sickness
  • A smokey purple eye- As a nod to Sally's purple dress (discussed in my colour theory research)
  • Generally heavy application of makeup- As described in the text. Skin to look dull and flat
  • Girlish hair- Sally is still young and this is easily forgotten given the way her character is written. Keeping an element of naivety will better express the facets of Sally's personality.

Bearing my design decisions in mind, I have produced this face chart reflecting the basic idea. I will go on to develop this in a little more detail.